Once the last neighbourhood any sane Parisian would willingly set foot in (unless a mugging at knife-point was on the agenda), the Faubourg Poissonière area has metamorphosed over the last few years into a hip hub of trendiness and fooding thanks to a wily young generation of entrepreneurs and restaurateurs who looked at its rock-bottom property prices and eclectic architecture and knew they were onto a good thing.
Admire the architectural facades of Hotel Bony, Folies Bergères and Cité de Trévise before falling under the time-warp spells of Cité Bergère, Passage Verdeau, Passage Jouffroy and Passage des Panoramas.
Pop into Hotel Drouot, Paris' oldest auction house, a (surprisingly) accessible anthill where novices, experts and everyone in between mingle in bargain-hunting fraternité.
Bring out your inner Willa Wonka at Paris' oldest sweet shop, À La Mère de Famille (35, Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009). Established in 1761, the boutique is a heart-warming hodgepodge of vintage patterned floors, pendant lights and lopsided wooden counters groaning under the delicious weight of chocolates, bonbons and confectioneries.
Musée Grévin- Not the best wax museum in the world but not the worst either. A good family option if you are at a loose end on a rainy day.
For something (scarily) different, Le Manoir de Paris, a haunted manor, Parisian-style. Book your tickets online.
Above all, eat, drink and be merry! The entire neighbourhood is basically one big foodie crawl where you would be hard pressed to find a bad meal (see below for a few addresses).
Faubourg Poissonière Addresses
- Hotel de Nell, 9 rue de la Conservatoire- Low key luxury and amenities à gogo in a serene, minimalist setting.
- My Home For You, 10 Boulevard Poissonnière, 75009- A perfectly positioned, supremely elegant bed & breakfast.
- Bistro Papillon, 6 Rue Papillon, 75009- Seasonal menus and local sourcing for this small bistronomic gem.
- Porte 12, 12 rue des Messageries, 75009- Refined modern French cuisine in beautifully understated surroundings.
- Albion, 80 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009- Nothing perfidious about this contemporary bistro à vin; small, well-balanced menus and amiable service.
- Pedzouille, 66 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009- A mi.nis.cule stable-meets-country themed eatery serving excellent meats and direct from the farm produce at inflation-busting prices … (as you will be practically sitting in your neighbour's lap, this is not a place for the claustrophobic or the anti-social).
- Café Pinson, 58 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009- A local HQ for all things gluten-free, organic and healthy, healthy, healthy.
- Michalak, 60 Fbg Poissonière, 75009 - Premium pâtisseries from one of Paris' star pastry chefs.
- La Regalade Conservatoire, 9 Rue du Conservatoire, 75009- The latest Regalade offshoot from Bruno Doucet, a founding father of the bistronomique movement.
- Bien Elevé, 47 Rue Richer, 75009- A produce-driven bistro with meat-focused menus.
- Yafo, 96 rue d'Hauteville 75010 Paris- A deli-café specialising in all things houmous. Yummy.